Environment Control System

In this project, I show the construction of the environmental control system controlled with Raspberry Pi.
This is my eighth time. grade STLP (
Student Technical Leadership Programproject.
More information about the Kentucky STLP program can be found on their website, which is: for now, I can use it to control a small table --
Top demonstration greenhouse.
However, since the system uses a relay board to switch 120 v sockets, it can be much larger in size.
My goal is to create the most suitable environment for food.
Produce plants in order to get food and food in extreme urban areas, places where climate change is fast, and even on other planets such as Mars.
The ECS system can also be used to plant plants too far away from the optimal growth area.
I will do this by controlling three variables: temperature, humidity, and light.
I use a temperature and humidity sensor to pass information to a Raspberry Pi computer that uses this information to decide when to turn on a pump or heating device.
I also promoted the development of LED.
In the day of computer control --night cycle.
To show the progress of the plant as it grows, I use a computer control camera installed inside a dark enclosure to track the progress of the plant.
In order to switch the heat, lights, water pumps and ventilation fans of the greenhouse, I assembled a 4-
Just changed the socket.
In the picture above, it can be seen on the right.
There are two outlets for a standard American socket, usually they are all connected together.
Since I want to switch four sockets and I want to switch in as little space as possible, I choose to disconnect a label between each pair of sockets.
In this case, I chose to break the \"neutral\" side.
You can see this in the two photos above.
In the second picture, please note that there are two neutral wires for each socket pair, with a total of 4 neutral wires.
These 4 wires will be switched when the relay is running.
During the development phase of my project, I realized that the heating light I planned to use to heat the housing would greatly interfere with daily life.
Cycle at night, as well as heating too much air, while heating too little dirt.
So I gave up the idea and decided to use the heattape instead.
I can put a heating.
The coil under the dirt, most importantly, will heat the roots of the plant, and because of the increase in heat, it will heat the air quickly and easily.
In the first photo above, you can see the hot tape that is fixed with an insulating nail.
After fixing the hot tape, I made a support for the LED Growth Light I bought.
As you can see in the second photo, this is just a simple wooden rack that is fixed together with screws.
I connected the light to the stand with a hanger line.
In the third picture, the frame and support are on their sides so you can see the bottom surface of the growing light.
There are many LEDs.
The planter tray shown above has to be installed I have a very special little greenhouse so I have to make the tray.
I use the bottom of a carton, cut it into a certain size, waterproof with a layer of plastic wrap and aluminum foil.
Then, as seen in the first two photos above, I planted my demonstration plants.
I chose lettuce in this case.
After planting, I put the planting tray into the bottom of the greenhouse and put the house on the heater and directly under the LED grow light.
I chose a small submersible pump for this demo greenhouse.
With this, I can make a reservoir with a bucket.
To distribute the water to the platter tray, I used a tee and a circle of tubes.
I drilled 1/64 holes at the bottom of the tubing.
Then I put the dribble hose into the pot tray.
Before using, I connected a section of tubing between the outlet of the pump and the tee fitting and put it on the dribble hose.
A very important step is to connect the wires from the gang outlet to the relay side of the relay board.
The second picture shows the power supply, ground and control line on the input side of the relay board.
The last picture shows the look of the breakout board after I connect two inputs (
Soil temperature sensor and soil moisture sensor)and 4 outputs (
Relay Control)
For Raspberry pie.
It looks complicated, but it\'s not.
My temperature sensor is a three-wire device that looks like a transistor, but it\'s more.
I\'m using the Dallas semiconductor company.
The Raspberry Pi supports this device directly.
After the operating system connects it to the power supply, ground, signal pin and runs a very simple setting, read the temperature and put the result into the file.
Not so simple.
During the construction of the greenhouse, I realized that the soil temperature sensor was not waterproof, so to protect it from moisture, I packaged it in the heat-
Shrink pipe, sealed with epoxy resin.
The first picture shows three temperature sensors for each stage of preparation.
On the left, the leads have been welded to the wires and heat shrink tubes that are applied separately to each lead.
The center sensor adds a layer of shrinkage-
Wrap the pipe around the ends of all wires and sensors.
The rightmost sensor has done all the work and is coated with epoxy at each end of the shrink package to seal any water or moisture.
In the second picture, you can see that the soil temperature sensor and the soil moisture sensor are placed in the soil.
I have set up a series of small programs: many of them are included here.